Carnival: January 2008 Archives

Carnival parades in New Orleans have been around since 1857. In the western 'burb of Metairie, it took an additional hundred years for them to arrive. Tonight, the Krewe of Caesar rolled through Metairie.

Metairie parades began in 1958, when the Krewe of Zeus rolled down Metairie Road. As the suburbs grew in the 1960s, so did the area's Carnival celebration, and more krewes formed and paraded. By the late 1970s, the Jeffeson Parish Sheriff's Office had concerns about the original parade route on Metairie Road. This particular street is a heavily-traveled, two-lane road whose winding path corresponds to the old Bayou Metairie waterway. When a parade stretched out over its length, as Carnival parades do, it gave first responders of all types fits. The parish began to nudge the krewes to move a bit north, to the six-lane Veterans Blvd., and now that street is the standard suburban parade route.

I don't care for Carnival parades in Metairie. They don't have the soul and feel of a parade in the city. The parish made a minor change in the route this year, so now the parades pass literally three blocks from my house. But I've managed to pass on my dislike for Metairie parades to my son to the point where, when I suggested today that he could have a "parade party" on Lundi Gras here at the house, he had an absolute fit, because that would mean missing the parades Uptown that evening.

Not everyone shares my dislike for suburban Carnival, however, which is why the principal of my son's high school asked the band if they would march in a Metairie parade, namely Caesar. The pitch from the principal was recruiting; they're a Catholic school, and most of the students post-storm are from Metairie. So, Brother Martin High School's band marched in Metairie tonight, the first time in over 20 years.

One thing about Caesar, though--they're big-time in terms of the money they spend on floats, costumes, and throws. The krewe was formed in 1979, by businessmen from Metairie, several of whom were in the Kewe of Zeus, the premier suburban parade at the time. The founders of Caesar committed to putting on a top-level parade, and they deliver on that promise annually. Here's one of their "super floats" passing by:

The boys marched and played well tonight, even though they were behind one of their rival schools, Archbishop Rummel High, in the marching order of the parade. It's an understandable situation, however, since Rummel is a Metairie school and BMHS were slumming. :-)

Tomorrow is another suburban parade for the boys, the Krewe of Alla, on the west bank of the Mississippi. The name is an abbreviation for "Algiers, Louisiana," not some redneck slight at Islam, in case anybody wonders. Alla is a day parade in a very different neighborhood, so it's a totally different experience that I'll describe tomorrow.

Music is such an important component of everything we do in New Orleans. Whether it's listening to WWOZ (hat tip to the inestimible Mr. Pierce up there in Newton, MA, for his regular 'OZ shoutouts in Dr. Alterman's blog) at the coffee shop, WTUL in the car, and whatever on your portable player of choice, we're as much about music as we are about food. Even on a cold Sunday evening in January (tonight), Offbeat has 36 live music listings.

For all that music permeates our lives here, Carnival is the Big Deal. Getting up early and getting out on the street on Mardi Gras is the High Church of New Orleans music. The boom boxes and car stereos start it off, leading into ad hoc groups walking down the parade route. They're followed by the brass bands which accompany the marching clubs like Pete Fountain's Half-Fast Walking Club, the Corner, Zig-Zag, Lyons, and Delachaise Marching Clubs. After each club passes by, the sound reverts to stereo systems of all kinds while everyone patiently sits and waits as the inevitible breakdowns which take place during the Zulu parade work themselves out.

The marching bands take the stage that is the parade route when Zulu and Rex roll. The experience ranges from military to junior high bands, but every one of them is part of the celebration. Once His Majesty's Calliope (the last float of Rex) has passed, the truck parades roll through most of the afternoon. The music goes back to stereos, but this time accompanied with the blaring horns of 18-wheelers as the drivers of the floats blast their way through the crowds.

So, here are some picks for your playlist. There are numerous ways to acquire these songs, byt the one I recommend most is Louisiana Music Factory (www.louisianamusicfactory.com). I'm not sure how much of this music can be had on iTunes; if you're more experienced with legal music downloads than I am, please comment.

Handa Wanda, by the Wild Magnolias. The tune's been around for longer, but the most common recording was made in 1970. This song speaks to me. It's what Mardi Gras is all about, at least for this white boy.

Mardi Gras in New Orleans by Professor Longhair. Many folks would put Fess at the top of the list, and I wouldn't argue. That's like trying to get in a discussion about whether vi is better than emacs, or other deep religious concepts.

Big Chief. Take your pick from Fess', Dr. John's, or Dirty Dozen's or Rebirth's versions. My most-listened to version at the moment is that of the Brother Martin High School Marching Band's, since my 13-year old trombone player has been practicing a lot.

South Rampart Street Parade. This march is best heard either live, played by a Marine band, or by listening to an Al Hirt recording.

Bourbon Street Parade. Satchmo's version is oh-so-good because of his vocals, but the Preservation Hall Jazz Band's is also great.

Stoned, Drunk, and Naked, by Anders Osborne. I figure this tune was written as a shout-out to the Krewe of Dreux, but even if it wasn't, it sums up the day's experience.

Iko, Iko, by the Dixie Cups. Accept no substitutes, even if their last name is Neville.

That's Enough Of That Stuff, by Marcia Ball. This is her shout-out to Fess, and she's got the skills to make it happen.

All On Mardi Gras Day. Dr. John's is probably the most popular version.

Brother John, by the Wild Tchoupitoulas. Again, Accept No Substitutes.

Take Me To The Mardi Gras, by Simon and Garfunkel. OK, they're...well, they're Simon and Garfunkel, but it's not a bad tune. If you don't like the idea, try Bob James' version.

If Ever I Cease To Love. The theme song of Rex, King of Carnival. A must.

Ooh Poo Pah Doo. If you have The Big Ol' Box Of New Orleans, you've got Troy Andrews' version, but Cyril Neville does this one great as well.

Junco Partner, by Professor Longhair. Another tune that a lot of folks have done. When you get a tune like this or Big Chief, it's no sin to mix in all the versions into the day's playlist.

I'm The Big Chief, by Anders Osborne and Monk Boudreaux. From their "Bury the Hatchet" CD, it's not Fess' tune, but one of their own.

Meet The Boyz On The Battlefront. Another well-covered tune, but I like the Osborne/Boudreaux version. Theirs brings out the calypso beat of the song well.

Mama Roux, by Dr. John. How can anybody be so white...and so funky?

Do Whatcha Wanna. My favorite version(s) are various ones with Kermit Ruffins and the ReBirth, but others do it well also.

New Suit, by the Wild Magnolias. Classic Mardi Gras Indian music.

Mardi Gras Mambo, by the Hawkettes. Art Neville's first band.

Carnival Time, by Al Johnson. It's not Mardi Gras until you play "Carnival Time."

Smoke it Right, another Osborne/Boudreaux song, because peace pipes are important on Mardi Gras Day.

Of course, you need a lot more music than just this list to get you through the day, so just mix in a few CDs by The Meters, Louis Armstrong, Dr. John, the ReBirth and the Dirty Dozen, along with any of your other favorite New Orleans artists and you're ready for parades!